Winter projects


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Heres a project I just finished on my new to me 04 400ss. never cared for the wood grain panels. This is all paint.
 

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Formula Tenn, best of luck with all the cockpit redo, did mine on the 93' 2 seasons ago, and like you, it had been on the list since we purchased. Hope your upholstery guy is good. Is he using old covers as templates to match? I just went ahead and purchased all now covers from Formula, because I really wanted to keep the stitching original, but done in all white. Did all the covering myself.
 

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Main cabin stbd wall vinyl coat 2.JPGMain cabin stbd wall vinyl coat 1.JPGMain cabin reupholstery 3.JPGMain cabin sette reupholstery 2.JPGMain cabin sette reupholstery 1.JPG

Sette after reupholstery. One piece back rest was modified to a three piece. Because I broke it during removal. Engineering on the fly! Turned out really well though and if I ever need to remove it again it will be WAY easier.

The interior walls of the cabin present quite a challenge as far as I'm concerned. It just seemed like a bit much to start tearing out portholes. I found a vinyl coating system that so far has worked wonderfully inside the cabin. SEM is the company and they have some marine specific products that I researched and decided to give it a try. If you have this type of vinyl inside your boat and it has a sticky feel to it, this might be a viable solution instead of replacing which in my situation would be a major undertaking. It requires you to clean and treat the vinyl before application, I followed the instructions and thought I'd give it a shot on this particular section. After a year I can report that it is holding up well and still looks great. Mind you that these wall panels see no sun or wear. I'm going to do the same thing to the head wall at the entrance steps and in fact I plan on applying this product to all the walls that are covered with this particular vinyl.
 
Exterior Reupholstering 1.JPGExterior Reupholstering 2.JPGExterior Reupholstering 3.jpg

Exterior upholstery replacement, we had a local trim shop to do this for us. Any rot was replaced before we took it to them, they basically got all my covers already removed and used them for templates. Then they installed the covers to the seat frames and I picked them up and reinstalled the assemblies back into the boat. I know some might not agree but we decided to nix the pink. Although I'm a fan of a little bit of color we both felt that we could do without the pink. Now the only pink is the accent stripe on the hull and IMO it looks better. Took 'er over to the high flutin' yacht club across the river last summer and was kinda amazed at how several people commented how they liked the "retro" colors.
 
Nice job Doug.

Thanks, I must say she is really starting to shape up. I had her buffed a few weeks ago and everybody on the dock is complementing how good it looks. Once the headliner gets finished that’ll just about wrap up any major repairs. And trust me when I say replacing a headliner in this boat ain’t a walk in the park.


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How do you remove the headliner F Tenn? I need to replace my windscreen washer lines and jets but am a bit nervous of having a stab at it in case I break something irreplaceable. I'm UK based and Formula cruisers here can be counted on one hand.
 
I need to take them down, all three as the centre one overlaps, to get at the underside of the foredeck to replace the windscreen washer jets and piping.
 
Had to do a repower on the port engine last year. We lost a cylinder and limped around the last part of the previous year so rather than wait too long I decided to go ahead and make the repairs. Glad I did, because we didn't suffer anything catastrophic. A basic rebuild was all that was required. Pulled the V drive as well and serviced it as well as a thorough cleaning of the bilge. It was funky.

Port V Drive Removal 1.JPGPort Engine after machine shop.jpgPort Engine Heads & Intake.jpgPort Engine paint touch up 1.JPGPort Engine Reinstall 3.jpg

All is well now, didn't get many pics of this but you get the idea i'm sure.
 
Replaced our Bimini top and all front eisenglass last year too. Revamped it to make the top connect to the arch via a kedder rail. We were able to re purpose the frame by basically flipping it around backwards and trimming some length off in various places. I could not be happier with this, it still has the same basic look but we gained some serious head room in the cockpit. We've never used the aft portion of the top but obviously it would need to be re fabricated if we choose to do something there in the future.

New Bimini Keder Rail Layout 1.jpgNew Bimini Keder Rail Layout 3.jpgNew Bimini to Arch 1.JPGNew Bimini to Arch 2.JPGNew Bimini to Arch 3.jpgNew Bimini to Arch 4.jpgNew Bimini 1.jpg
 
Well Bruce it is certainly doable but in order to remove the three center panels in the main cabin there is quite a bit of trim removal that has to be done first. As I recall the forward and aft curtain valances, all overhead lights that are mounted thru the three panels, the starboard side entrance wall, main cabin entrance door trim and the starboard upper wall panel that extends from the power distribution panel forward to the radio panel. Also the trim rings around both hatches. Once all that is out of the way you have to basically move the outer panels OUT sideways towards the outside of the boat enough to expose the brackets/screws that hold the sides of the center panel in place. I found that moving the two side panels outward was a BEYATCH!! And if your interior is in good shape you'd need to do it without damaging anything. Once you get the center panel out, the outer panels can be removed and you'll have access to the underside of the deck. ALL this assumes your set up is the same as mine which i'm pretty sure it is but not positive. Good luck!
 
AH! Not very encouraging then. I'd sooner do without jet washers than damage the headlining. Importing replacements, if even possible, is just not economically viable. I will look and see if it is at all possible to route through the underside of the dash and windscreen and come up directly below the windscreen or up a glass channel and spray from the top down.
 
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