SINGLE POINT WATER FILL


Spice,

Mineral deposits (mostly calcium) in hard water can accumulate in plumbing lines and fixtures and produce scale that can eventually clog the lines, as well as cause fixtures to not operate properly. It takes a while for the effects to emerge, but once they do, it can be a lot of work and expense to remedy.

As for the filter, most of the marine water softening canisters I've seen come with a pre-filtration system, intended to be used like this....... Water comes out of the dock supply, into the filter, out of the filter, into the softener tube, and into the boat. The softener or the filter can be used separately as well. For example, I don't use the filter when I'm washing the boat, ect....

GW
 
SPICE,
I'M NOT SURE WHAT BRAND IT IS, BUT THE FILTER IS ABOUT 2 INCHES IN DIAMETER, AND 12 INCHES LONG. IT MAY BE A STANYDINE, BUT NOT SURE. IT IS IN THE DOCK BOX AT THE MARINA AND CANNOT GET TO IT TILL SPRING.
 
Spice

The water filter I just purchaced is a Boji water filter and softener. It get's mounted on the dock. You can find it at west marine and boaters world web sites. Hope this helps
 
Spice,

I got mine at the Annapolis Powerboat show, and its called Spot Free. The filters and hoses come with the unit, and replacement filters are available from the manufacturer. I got the mid-size unit, which is adequate for my 34PC without constant recharging.

As for recharging, when you get the larger units, they significantly increase the time between recharging, but the recharging process takes longer on those units. Your choice, of course. Charge more frequently, and take less time to do it, or charge less often, and spend more time doing so. No big deal either way.

BTW, I found the boat show prices to be considerably better.
 
So, If I use a water softener I wont have to dry off the boat after washing?
 
Summerwind,

I wash my boat with water right out of the tap. It's the final rinse that you want to be with softened water. That's how the drive thru car washes do it. (Just don't let any of the boat dry completely prior to the final rinse.) You can wash the whole boat with softened water if you want (you'll use much less soap because it will lather like crazy), but you will be re-charging the canister much more frequently.

Anyhow, if you keep your softening canister charged, and you do your final rinse with a misting nozzle, your boat will dry without spots on it, which saves a bunch of time and effort. Also, you will get the added benefit of your wax job lasting longer, as you are wearing it thinner and thinner with every wipe down.

When you are done, don't forget to plug everything back into your "single point water fill" receptacle. This suggestion keeps me on topic!
 
We also have the one point fill/connection at the stern on our '05 37PC. It is much nicer than other we've owned. The good thing is that if you get busy doing other things, there's an overflow vent/outlet in the bow so you can't damage the system. I know from experience. At first I couldn't figure out where the water was coming from. Nice feature. Formula is a forward-thinking company.
 
GABBYGIRL,
IF YOU HAVE WATER COMING OUT THE VENT IN THE BOW, THAN THE AUTOMATIC FLOAT SHUT OFF IS NOT WORKING. MINE FILLS TANK, AND A FLOAT SHUTS OFF THE SOLONOID THAT FEEDS THE TANK. SHOULD NOT BE COMING OUT THE VENT.
 
Are we talking upgrade for the Single Point Fill or Upgrade for the water softener?

My question is, do you all think it is possible to retrofit the dual fill, with a single point fill...or is everthing buried and not so easy?
 
IT MAY NOT BE THAT EASY. A SOLONOID MUST BE INSTALLED AND A NEW FRESH WATER LINE RUN TO THE TANK FOR FILLING. ALSO, A THREE POSITION SWITCH TO SELECT THE PUMP, CITY WATER, OR TANK FILL.
THE TANKWATCH CONTROL SHOULD OPERATE THE SOLONOID, WHEN IT CALLS FOR WATER, AND SHUT IT OFF WHEN FULL.
FORMULA SHOULD BE ABLE TO GIVE YOU A COPY OF THE PLUMBING AND WIRING SCHEMATIC, AND ALSO THE SWITCH AND BACKING PLATE.
NOT SURE IF ITS WORTH THE EFFORT, BUT IT WORKS GREAT.
 
I've been contemplating this up grade too. I do not believe one would need to run a line to the fresh water tank from the stern fill. What I have envisioned included a solenoid valve to bypass the water pump behind the galley fridge. The switch to engage this would be under our sink. The power would come from the same feed as for the fresh water pump. Turning the switch to "single point fill" would de-power the fresh water pump. I would also consider wiring a NC relay in series with the feed that would be operated by the water tank indicator. This way when the full LED would light, I would use that sensor to engage the relay which would engage the relay and open the circuit to the solenoid. This would prevent over filling of the tank.

I've also considered to install a mechanical valve to bypass the fresh water pump. In this case I would turn off the 12v breaker to the fresh water pump and when filling the tank, I would wait for water to come out of the vent to know that the tank is completely filled.

The only thing that has stopped me from this project is that I am not completely sure of the of the fittings used to connect the plumbing to the pump.
 
I think it could be done with a manual valve also and you can stand by and watch just the same as when filling from the front fill.
I was thinking of tying in under the sink as this is the closest to the front holding tank and you can see everything and would hear the overflow from front vent. And yes you would have to have the 12 volt system off for the water supply. A fellow boater with a older egg harbour has done this himself but our systems are a little bit different. At the moment i do not see it as a major undertaking but it is a boat.
 
toofast said:
OUCH...yeah, sounds like a bit more work that I was looking for...
Click to expand...
You could just buy a new boat that has this as a standard feature. :D

Somebody has to get this economy rolling!!!
 
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