Engine Hatch Actuator


S

SabrToothSqrl

Well-known member
anyone know what model these are or what I need for a 2001 292?

It's making an awful grinding noise when in use. Not a huge deal, but annoying and sounds awful.

Since the motor works, I assume maybe it can be rebuilt? vs. replaced.
Lift hatch, slap in a 2x4 to hold it up, remove actuator and inspect?
 
I emailed Formula for the part #. If it's not too much $$ I'll just buy one, if it's a lot, I'll rebuild it next winter.
 
Formula wants $820! for this thing:

64087 EA HATCH RAM 18"90DEG.10:1 Rev.A $819.86


Does that mean I can use any 18" one, which seems more around $400 or so?

what ones are you guys using?

thanks.



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Thanks. I need to get some other work done first, but I'll remove it this winter and get measurements, and if I can take it apart to fix the grinding I will. Worst case I just replace it anyway...
 
Replaced w/the one from above. It does not move any faster. It does not have a clutch for the ends of the throw, so it just jams instead... so it's not as nice as the original one. Also the shaft is thicker, so I had to take out the 5" long shaft that slid into the top piece. I was able to fit the shaft into that, so it still has the ability to get the hatch partially open if the actuator fails. I have a bolt in that now, It didn't have one before, but it looks like it should be a pin w/a wire to remove. given how long the top part is maybe I'll just remove that bolt.

Anyway, it now opens less than it did before unless I want to pay for some custom stainless brackets or so. it opens more than enough to do all the work I need, so I'm going to leave it for now unless it causes an issue...

so, the good news is no more grinding noise!
 
I have that grinding noise in my 271's actuator. Have been ignoring thinking at some point I would repair it, but I may have to bite the bullet and replace the whole unit. Thanks for sharing your experience... most helpful.
 
Just a reminder that the one from CP was crap. It's now even slower than ever. If this winter is good to me (fewer repairs than last 2 winters of engines + steering).

Hoping to order the same as the 'oem' one this winter. I did leave a lot of wire on it though, I like just in case, but maybe if I shorten it up (might be 2-3' less) it might speed up.
 
I ended up disassembling it completely. Water had obviously leaked in the screw/gears/sliding parts and it was a rusty mess of grease and metal particles. Culprit was the main o-ring that prevents water intrusion. Cleaned, wired-brushed, and repacked the hell out of it with new high-end marine-grade grease. Crunching noise was reduced by abt 80%. I suspect the remaining crackle here and there is probably associated to metal obviously corroded in certain areas.
IMG_2915.jpgIMG_2916.jpgIMG_2918.jpg
 
Key action is to remove that white cap (lower right corner of my first pic) at the end of the "screw" in order to then remove the "coupler" (middle part in same pic). That coupler, a glorified "nut", is the culprit. Overall and ultra-messy job, but not rocket science. Good luck!
 
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SpidRacer said:
Key action is to remove that white cap (lower right corner of my first pic) at the end of the "screw" in order to then remove the "coupler" (middle part in same pic). That coupler, a glorified "nut", is the culprit. Overall and ultra-messy job, but not rocket science. Good luck!
Click to expand...
The plastic hollow cap (in Pic #3) on the end of the outside tube, how did you get that loose. I assume it screws of. I am hesitant to put too much pressure on it for fear of breaking/cracking it. I tried a little heat to no avail. Also there is a flat o-ring inside that cap that has a crease in it. No corrosion in the cylinder but any idea where to get a new one. It is not a round o-ring but a square o-ring.
 
My hatch actuator died. Had to lift the hatch 6" on the slider, cram 2 rolls of paper towels under each side (4 total), I used a bolt to attach the top, should have used a pin, but was able to squeeze in there, undo the bolt, slide up, and then used a 2x4 to hold the hatch up while I removed the wiring to test if it was getting voltage (was), then removed the ram.

calling Motion Systems on Tues AM.
 
SabrToothSqrl said:
My hatch actuator died. Had to lift the hatch 6" on the slider, cram 2 rolls of paper towels under each side (4 total), I used a bolt to attach the top, should have used a pin, but was able to squeeze in there, undo the bolt, slide up, and then used a 2x4 to hold the hatch up while I removed the wiring to test if it was getting voltage (was), then removed the ram.

calling Motion Systems on Tues AM.
Click to expand...
Good luck communicating with Motion. I emailed first and was told I had to buy through Formula. Tried end around via phone call with no luck. Took mine apart (left white plastic piece on shaft), cleaned thoroughly and lubricated with marine grease that Motion mentioned during one phone call. Mobil something. You can buy the replacement electric motor last I knew through motion.
 
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