vacuflush not working - green empty and red full both on


Sometimes TP gets hung up and sends a false reading. When the red full light is on system will not flush. Try adding some fresh water at the pump-out connection and stir things up a bit. Then pump out. Hopefully that will clear things up.
 
Yours probably has 4 floats

Mine full went bad a long time ago and could not be fixed with cleaning so I cut the wire to the high. Doing that means it could over flow, but that was my decision and I told next owner prior to sell
 
Cutting the wire would be my last resort. Unscrew the sender (after pumping and flushing the tank a bunch to make it nicer). There is a vent hose and 1 connector on it. You can then take this out into a bucket and clean it up.

Using a digital multimeter (they are now cheap enough everyone should have) you can beep out the floats using the continuity function. Plenty of youtube videos out there on how to check continuity. Then you can find the pins for each float, move the float and see if the continuity changes state. I believe the empty (longest) is normally closed, meaning when the float moves up it actually opens. The rest are normally open, when the float moves up they close. Only if you can't get it to show closed on the multimeter by manually moving the floats would I cut a wire. The actual switches I believe are magnetic reed switches inside the float tubes.
 
As GandDFreehold said, add some water in the via the pumpout connection and then take your boat for a ride. I've had it happen a few times and fixed it this way.
 
TurboJoe said:
Cutting the wire would be my last resort. Unscrew the sender (after pumping and flushing the tank a bunch to make it nicer). There is a vent hose and 1 connector on it. You can then take this out into a bucket and clean it up.

Using a digital multimeter (they are now cheap enough everyone should have) you can beep out the floats using the continuity function. Plenty of youtube videos out there on how to check continuity. Then you can find the pins for each float, move the float and see if the continuity changes state. I believe the empty (longest) is normally closed, meaning when the float moves up it actually opens. The rest are normally open, when the float moves up they close. Only if you can't get it to show closed on the multimeter by manually moving the floats would I cut a wire. The actual switches I believe are magnetic reed switches inside the float tubes.
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Thx much. I will take out the unit and check it. Do you know if you can buy a new one?
 
Yes, it looks like dometic still makes it, but my limited searching only found the whole kit, senders and lights. There are different heights, but when you pull it out it's easy to measure.

I was looking for just the sender assembly since I had a snapped vent fitting. Wound up machining a barb fitting to fit in the top and epoxied it on, then was able to clean the floats. Oddly enough on a fresh clean tested system my low float isn't working. Or it's the LED.. either way it's annoying and I'll deal with it this off season. Very finicky things.
 
Thx very much. I spoke to Formula tech today the their factory. They still use these today so you can by a new one for $300.
 
my sensors were not working... I did two treatments of the following and Voila everything started working again.

Unique Sensor Cleaner Liquid for RV and Boat Black Water Holding Tanks 32 oz. - 41J-1​

 
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