Skylights 2012 45Y


FormulatCT

FormulatCT

Member
Since owning the boat, 1 year now, the skylights leaking issues have been repaired 4 times, and are still both leaking.

What other options are there, ie can the lights be glassed over, or completely replaced?

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I had the same problem. I believe Formula TAG and the yacht company I had repair it said you don't want to remove the glass unless you absolutely have to, it can break easily. I mention this because my original thought was to remove them, clean the area really well and reset them. Instead they cut out the old caulk, cleaned it and reapplied several layers over a few days. The starboard side was fixed on the first pass, but the port window took 3 tries. One other thing to note, the screw holes for the bow sun pads can also leak. In my case that water would appear on top of the galley cabinet. I initially thought this was from the skylight, but once we sealed those holes with some silicon the problem stopped. Knock on wood, they have been good now for 6+ months.
 
zen said:
I had the same problem. I believe Formula TAG and the yacht company I had repair it said you don't want to remove the glass unless you absolutely have to, it can break easily. I mention this because my original thought was to remove them, clean the area really well and reset them. Instead they cut out the old caulk, cleaned it and reapplied several layers over a few days. The starboard side was fixed on the first pass, but the port window took 3 tries. One other thing to note, the screw holes for the bow sun pads can also leak. In my case that water would appear on top of the galley cabinet. I initially thought this was from the skylight, but once we sealed those holes with some silicon the problem stopped. Knock on wood, they have been good now for 6+ months.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. So, the water coming through the bow pad screws was going through the skylight? Which of the bow pad screw holes did you need to address?

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Last edited:
i fought this for a few years actually. the question is where are you seeing water coming in? if it's coming down the inside of the 'ring' that goes around the skylight, then the only way it can get in is from around the skylight itself. the bow pad would leak down through the ceiling.

i agree that you shouldn't reseal with the regular caulk. i did mine twice, and had various shops do them probably 4 times, all with 3M 4000 based on TAGs advice. the seal would never last more than a month...usually just 2 weeks or so.

i finally found a company that came highly recommended, and when i described my situation to them, they said that 4000 while UV stable wouldn't bond well to the acrylic. they came in and dug out all of the old caulk/4000, and then sealed with Silpruf. took them a day to dig it all out, and a day to seal it up. it's been 4 months since they did the repair, and i haven't had a single issue since.

according to this company, the original install using 4000 works because they actually bed the skylight into the bead, which allows it to seal better. since we're dealing with a repair, it just won't hold up.

i have the original install instructions from TAG if you're interested.

good luck
twarble
 
I had this issue several years ago on an 07 45. I removed all caulk, ( if it’s bad why leave it), removed lean , cleaned all surfaces. This takes time and effort but well worth it. I purchased sealing glazing gasket, very sticky, and placed on fiberglass where lexan lays. Make sure you have a continuous seal. I then caulked the perimeter with a commercial window glazing/ sealing caulk. Don’t remember the name. Never had a problem again.
 
twarble said:
i fought this for a few years actually. the question is where are you seeing water coming in? if it's coming down the inside of the 'ring' that goes around the skylight, then the only way it can get in is from around the skylight itself. the bow pad would leak down through the ceiling.

i agree that you shouldn't reseal with the regular caulk. i did mine twice, and had various shops do them probably 4 times, all with 3M 4000 based on TAGs advice. the seal would never last more than a month...usually just 2 weeks or so.

i finally found a company that came highly recommended, and when i described my situation to them, they said that 4000 while UV stable wouldn't bond well to the acrylic. they came in and dug out all of the old caulk/4000, and then sealed with Silpruf. took them a day to dig it all out, and a day to seal it up. it's been 4 months since they did the repair, and i haven't had a single issue since.

according to this company, the original install using 4000 works because they actually bed the skylight into the bead, which allows it to seal better. since we're dealing with a repair, it just won't hold up.

i have the original install instructions from TAG if you're interested.

good luck
twarble
Click to expand...

Hey Todd, how has the Silpruf held up, skylights still holding up?


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dry as a bone! very happy with the repair. the only problem i have is that the outside has developed some small black dots...mold? i haven't contacted the company that did the repair to see if there's a way to clean it yet, but that's the only problem with the repair. i would definitely do it again.
 
twarble said:
dry as a bone! very happy with the repair. the only problem i have is that the outside has developed some small black dots...mold? i haven't contacted the company that did the repair to see if there's a way to clean it yet, but that's the only problem with the repair. i would definitely do it again.
Click to expand...

Great to hear, thanks and if you got no leaks, but black spots, you’re in good shape!


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I did the 4200 route, lasted 2 years. Found a quick fix. I had a roll of Sail Repair tape. I cut one inch stips and placed it over the caulk area and totally dry for 11 months. I am thinking about digging the old caulk out this winter and might try the Silpruf since Twarble has had good results and keeps his boat near mine in Annapolis MD. I will keep the Sail Tape handy as if was a quick and easy fix. I might even try to ask a local graphics guy to see if he has a tape solution or would he consider installing the Sail tape with his artistic knife to ]make it look a little better.
 
gkastendike said:
I did the 4200 route, lasted 2 years. Found a quick fix. I had a roll of Sail Repair tape. I cut one inch stips and placed it over the caulk area and totally dry for 11 months. I am thinking about digging the old caulk out this winter and might try the Silpruf since Twarble has had good results and keeps his boat near mine in Annapolis MD. I will keep the Sail Tape handy as if was a quick and easy fix. I might even try to ask a local graphics guy to see if he has a tape solution or would he consider installing the Sail tape with his artistic knife to ]make it look a little better.
Click to expand...

Is it still dry after 11 months, or after 11 months did the leaking reappear?


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Looks like I am number two on the list to use the Silpurf which is a 100% silicon flexable caulk. I used a drimmel tool to ruff up the lexan and the glass and cleaned with alcohol. I applied the first coat and used a tool to press the caulk down into the frame. Then went over with two more applications to fill the voids. Easy to work with, sets up in about 30 minutes and is flexable. Now dry for 2 weeks. Thanks for recommending Silpruf.
 
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