Polishing Steel


S

SabrToothSqrl

Well-known member
Well, I couldn't find a detailed shopping list / process to make my stainless props shine like a mirror, so I made my own: (Yes, I know technically a satin finish might be quicker, don't care).

I'm currently practicing on old mower blades. I switched to Gator blades, so I had these laying around, which made a good practice piece. (Love the Gator blades).

Eye Protection:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7XBF8Q?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1


Angle Grinder:
https://www.harborfreight.com/power...4-12-in-slide-switch-angle-grinder-58092.html

Noise Canceling Headphones (Were $40 before Christmas)
(These are awesome)!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KHTJL1F?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Shop Gloves:
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-mil-nitrile-powder-free-gloves-100-pack-large-light-blue-68497.html

Metal Polishing Kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FJ5RWCM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


I used a 60 grit flap disc on the mower blade - Hopefully you wouldn't need this on your prop!
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-...s-backing-and-aluminum-oxide-grain-69602.html


I have a stainless tie-bar between my drives, I'll polish that up to!
Only 132 days until boating season!

the photo is most to least abrasive, left to right. The mower blades turned out very cool. I think I need more practice, but I'm fairly happy. If you don't polish your mower blades, why even mow right?! lol.


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setup.jpgwhole.jpg

the paper graphic with the arrow, in the photo, is upside down.
They are in order of most to least abrasive left --> right.

Have fun!

Gator Blades (Work great)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MWMC5CP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No, not sponsored by anyone, but if anyone wants to, I'd be happy to help sell stuff that works. It's infuriating trying to find real how-to guides on a lot of stuff, that include simple shopping lists of materials.
 
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The weeds will be very impressed with the mirror finish..Ha..I always also use 600-3000 grit wet/dri paper for stainless especially rub rail scuffs. Nice Thanks
 
More Stuff

I keep thinking there should be something between the red wheel and the actual buffer wheel.

More practice attached.

it's sometimes hard to see without polishing between, then you have to go back a grit.
I think my guard might be hitting the blade at some points too, but I don't really want to take it off. maybe I'll stick some weatherstripping to it.

bugff1.jpgbuff2.jpgbuff3.jpg


Picked this up:

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-4-inch-polishing-wheel-set-65287.html

HF doesn't seem to have wool wheels for an angle grinder though.
 
Unless a angle grinder is variable speed I think a wool wheel would be spun way too fast. Polishers are in the 2000 rpm range, grinders generally in the 6000 rpm range
 
There are a good number of wool disks for angle grinders, (so I'm hoping they are designed for it), but you are right, it does seem very fast.


https://www.amazon.com/Grinder-Buff...244&sprefix=angle+grinder+wool,aps,112&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/6-Pack-Abras...244&sprefix=angle+grinder+wool,aps,112&sr=8-6

This looks variable speed, for not too much cash:

https://www.amazon.com/10881A-Cordl...7&sprefix=variable+speed+angle,aps,100&sr=8-4

I've probably put too much effort into this. I planed to try on the props/trim tabs/tie-rods, but ended up hurting my neck (again). hopefully I can take it on next week or so. I seem to pinch a nerve or kink something on the left back side of my neck every 8-12 months and have a hard time turning it left/right.
 
Naw, those look good. The ratings are for 12,000. I really like the flap wool. Im ordering a few, Thanks. I was thinking a old school wool pad thats stitched together on a 12K grinder...yikes
 
Started on the props!

Started on the back sides of the blades - before trying the fronts.
Started with just the wool buffer, you don't want to make more work for yourself.
Used the brown wax.

Now I have shiny scratches. lol.

I did the backs of the props and the hubs. I'll use a new wool pad for the fronts.
There are a lot more scratches than I thought I had.

I'm at the age where it doesn't hurt to be hunched over for an hour+ on the workbench. It hurts AFTER.

if you can't figure out before/after from the pics. I did it wrong.

My buddy thought they looked pretty good in person.

I need either a way way way (way) higher grit flap disc, or I also have some pads for my cordless drill. I don't want use a 220 on these! way too rough.

The drill now just feels OMG SO SLOW compared to the 10k RPM angle grinder.

I think the drill is barely 1,800 RPM.

prop4.jpgprop1.jpgprop5.jpgprop2.jpgprop3.jpg
 
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More Parts

Cleaned up the tie-bar, and started on a trim tab.

TrimTab1.jpgTrimTab2.jpgPropTues.jpg


1/2 done to show difference.

Original photos are 4032 x 3024. 12 megapixels
Forum photos are 357 x 258


tiebar1.jpg
 
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Done

Well, these are as done as I can make them.
From an arms length, they look pretty damn good.
Up close they aren't bad at all for 20 years and like 800 hours of spinning.

To make them 'perfect' would require removing too much metal for me to want to do it.

They look much better at full res. I love how metal looks almost magical when it's that smooth.
Kinda like it's not even real.

PropFinal1.jpgPropFinal2.jpgPropFinal3.jpg
 
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Thanks.

I learned a lot and now they really pop.
the 400 and 600 grit from the harbor freight kit are good for deep scratches.
The wool pads are good if you just need to put a polish on it.

I have enough stuff left over to make a mower blade really shine.
Was thinking about wall mounting it in my shop lol.

I also have some of the pistons from my old blown engines, I could make a really shiny piston and conrod. good center piece. lol
 
well, this is awkward. Maybe the props are too shiny. :)
I honestly forgot about this project until I took the cover off the props to install them today.
I was pleasantly surprised
Prop2.jpegProp3.jpeg
Prop1.jpeg.
 
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