New Anchor and Anchor Roller, prep for Windlass

[tpenfield]

This year, I am preparing to install a windlass on my 330Ss.

The boat originally had no bow roller or windlass, the anchor was stored in the anchor locker, which is a real pain to use.

Well, earlier this year, the outdrives needed some work, and the boat budget got stretched a little bit, sooo, I decided to install the roller and new anchor this year, then do the windlass next year.

Here is the new anchor and roller, along with a new hinge for the locker hatch.

The boat seemed to be border line between a 22 lb claw anchor and the next size up, which is 33 lb. I went with the 33 lb. just to be safe.

I left enough space between the bow roller and the locker hatch to install a vertical windlass (Lewmar v700 or similar). The chain pin will have to go at that point.

I also roughed in the wiring for the windlass, since I am refurbishing the headliner in the cabin right now, so wiring to the bow is all exposed.

I ran 2 cables from the bow (as shown) up along the cable harness in the cabin ceiling and then across to the electrical/refrigerator cabinet and then down the dead space along the port side, exiting out the engine bay near the batteries and the battery switch.

I also ran a 12 gauge trilpex wire from the bow the the helm for the rocker switch. The circuit breaker (35 amp) will go near the battery switch and the solenoid will (hopefully) go up behind the fascia board in the v-berth.

So, at least for now, anchoring will be a bit easier and I should be able to add the windlass next year without too much fuss.

 

[ButchF20]

Hi Ted, we spoke before I am doing the same thing on my 280, how did you access the nuts under the roller area, through the anchor locker like we talked about ? Looks like mine may be next year running out of time now.
Thanks, Butch

 

[tpenfield]

Hi Ted, we spoke before I am doing the same thing on my 280, how did you access the nuts under the roller area, through the anchor locker like we talked about ? Looks like mine may be next year running out of time now.
Thanks, Butch

The bolts/nuts that are holding down the Bow Light, correct?

Don't tell anyone, but I figured that there was no way I could reach them without some extra-ordinary tooling. So, I cut the light off from the back with a sawzall, just above the deck and lopped the heads of the bolts off. The bolts fell into the anchor locker and the light fell to the ground.

A little bit of hole sealing and I was onto mounting the roller.

BTW - my anchor locker extended all the way to the tip of the bow.

 

[Butch F20]

Thanks Ted,

That sounds good, I do not think my anchor locker runs all the way to the bow, if so will make life a lot easier, I am still under cover and only have access to the cabin> hope to have it uncovered this weekend. What type of bow lights did you use, they look nice.

Thanks,
Butch

 

[tpenfield]

I think the bow lights are Attwood, or something like that. They were a pain to find . . . mostly single bow lights available, very few split lights.

Correction: Aqua Signal 242277 Ser 24 Stainless Steel Tell Tale Port/St

 

[tpenfield]

Also, FWIW - I put a piece of 1/4" thick starboard material on the underside of the deck where the bow roller mounts to act as a backing plate. 3/8" bolts through the deck and backing plate along with a couple of progressively sized washers to distribute the load.

 

[ButchF20]

Thanks Ted,

I am in the Machine Shop business and planned on using a stainless plate under the deck for the bow roller bolts, but starboard should work fine and I have some lying around. I may do what you did, install the roller now and just add the windlass later this summer of next year.
Thanks,
Butch