Bravo Cone Clutch Repair


T

tpenfield

Member
My starboard outdrive was having a little trouble going into gear and through my research i came to know it is from a situation often referred to as 'glazing' of the clutch surfaces. There are a couple of fixes . . .

1) Buy/install a new gear/clutch set ( $1,000+ in parts alone)

2) Disassemble the gear/clutch set and rough up the surfaces slightly, removing the 'glazing'

Since I only get so much allowance each week, I chose option #2 :)

Here are a few pictures of the disassembly . . .

IMG_0634.jpgIMG_0635.jpgIMG_0638.jpgIMG_0640.jpgIMG_0642.jpg


Getting the Gear set apart was a bit tricky, as I was afraid to force it, but I figured it out.

Now, I need to put it all back together and do the same to the other outdrive. Hopefully it all works . . .
 
tpenfield said:
My starboard outdrive was having a little trouble going into gear and through my research i came to know it is from a situation often referred to as 'glazing' of the clutch surfaces. There are a couple of fixes . . .

1) Buy/install a new gear/clutch set ( $1,000+ in parts alone)

2) Disassemble the gear/clutch set and rough up the surfaces slightly, removing the 'glazing'

Since I only get so much allowance each week, I chose option #2 :)

Here are a few pictures of the disassembly . . .

View attachment 11218View attachment 11219View attachment 11220View attachment 11221View attachment 11222


Getting the Gear set apart was a bit tricky, as I was afraid to force it, but I figured it out.

Now, I need to put it all back together and do the same to the other outdrive. Hopefully it all works . . .
Click to expand...
Not a cheap fix. Following.
 
Yep I tore mine apart like that a few years ago chasing outdrive ?sounds? I didn?t like. Never did find anything smoking gun but it sure was educational. Make sure clean everything good and buy a shifter and reseal kit they aren?t very expensive while its all apart.


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All done . . .

The second outdrive (starboard) was a lot quicker, having learned from the first one.

The shift mechanism was a bit rusty, but cleaned up fine.

IMG_0651.jpg

Here is the cone clutch in all its glory.

IMG_0652.jpg
.
So, in addition to roughing up the surfaces, I also flipped the whole gear set on both outdrives, so forward gear will use the clutch that reverse used to, and vice versa.

I won't be able to do a full test of the clutches for a few weeks . . . still working on some other planned maintenance.
 
I use merc special 101 grease on all the shift/shift linkage parts that are not in oil. It holds up exceptionally well and makes life much easier the next time. It's now available from Teague since merc discontinued if for the not as good 2-4-c grease.

Also the 101 is great on prop splines, bolt threads etc. Pretty much any assembly that doesn't need sealer or locktite I use the 101 on. I use it on all my anode hardware, comes off with ease every year.
 
Speaking of marine grease;

What are people putting on their metal drain plugs?
My plugs are metal plugs in metal housing. (I think it's all brass looking).

Grease or anti-sieze?

I put them in, in spring, then it's on a lift all summer, I remove them in the fall. (indoor stored).
And would prefer they unscrew in the fall...
 
Lil dab of silicone plumbers grease works for me. In theory it shouldn?t be necessary to lube it being a tapered thread but I understand not wanting it to seize up. I don?t hog tie it either- just snug seems to work fine.


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I don't think I torque them down either, but in fall when we pull it out, I'm up in the boat, wife's on the ground and wants to help, so I'd ask her to get the plugs (3) out. She's usually not strong enough. (And this girl is strong). So I wasn't sure if maybe it should be given some sort of grease/anti seize. I can usually get them out fine w/an open end.
 
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