Spring Work - 292 raw water parts

[SabrToothSqrl]

3 years goes by fast. Raw water impeller/body time.
My arms hurt. My back hurts. and No way in hell am I buying another boat without outboards.

While I was in there, I looked at my Perko Flush kits and thought, man, these are right here, maybe I should remove them? but they work, right?

Well, I get everything back together. My god is that one hose on the raw water pump a PITA. it's the water IN, so it has to be strong enough to not collapse under suction. I hate that hose.

I know I'm going to hurt tomorrow, but I noticed on the hose the port flush kit - drip - drip - drip. If water is getting out, then air could get in or water could get out while running. Found a new kit - amazon. should be here thurs. I know one of the engines, the temp likes to bounce around a bit, the other is steady. I don't know which though. I wish I wrote this stuff down when it happens. Maybe this was the cause? small bit of air in the cooling system?

Getting that thing out.. took me a bit. First I un-clamped everything - about 5 clamps. Then there was no way to get anything close to enough leverage to get it out, so with my trusty new DeWalt oscillating tool, I cut it in half, hoping to gain some mobility. Working between twin engine is just so fun. Well, that kinda worked, but not really enough.

Removed the clamp at the raw water pump, and got that hose off, so I now had 1/2 the flush thing removed. was also now able to get the other 1/2 around near the side of the engine and with some dawn and gloves on wiggle it and just yank.

I've seen some people have issues with these - but mine are at least 10 years old at this point, and have held up to our marina's skin removing water pressure.

Both engines fired up, I like to test as much as I can 4-5 weeks before launch in case I need any parts!
Merc says 3 years on the impellers, they worked fine all 3 years, but looking at them now, they sure look.. smaller lol.

I also label hoses for easier reassembly. White marker paint pen. I honestly thought about just removing the engine lol, but I managed. If I have to do the other engine, I have a better overall plan ready.
I thought about doing strb, but it's not leaking, and it's such a PITA, that it can wait until it starts leaking or whatever.

 

[AllDodge]

one of the engines, the temp likes to bounce around a bit, the other is steady. I don't know which though. I wish I wrote this stuff down when it happens. Maybe this was the cause? small bit of air in the cooling system?

A small amount of air can cause increased heat, but don't see it causing the needle to bounce. This might be caused by a loose connection, inside gauge or outside on wires

Changing the pump out was one of the things I also hated. My arms use to look similar

I hated seeing my PC go from all the work I put in her, but having twin OB is going to be great from now on. Have one Merc pump kit I was going to use this season, but not now

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Both temps seemed within spec for the boat this spring after a few runs

Starboard, oil pressure was normal (same as port) for a while, then after 15 min+ of run would start to fall. If you backed down the RPMs, pressure would build. (was never under 40, usually runs 60 for me at cruise).

This, in my mind, seemed to indicate too much oil in the engine. The crank would, at higher RPMs, induce air into the oil, air compresses and lowers the oil pressure.

Removed about 1/2 quart from the engine (dip stick showed it was overfilled). As long as it doesn't cause an issue, I'm usually fine with a hair over full as my engines do burn about 1 qt a season (100 hrs).

Now back to normal! Yay for 'easy' fixes.

Also looked like the power steering fluid was low, so I added some. it's self leveling, as any excess just ends up in the bilge lol. Wrapped some paper towels around the cap for this.

A few other odds and ends to tweak, but 2023 should be a good season!