Reverse Lock Out Issues


S

SabrToothSqrl

Well-known member
So, I have an issue, but admit I didn't test the truck last few times.

Background:
I rent a 2500 or 3500 Pickup from Enterprise 2x a year to move my 10k boat to/from marina, so it can come home and be inside all winter.
It works well, as it's $150ish to rent a pickup for the literal 2x a year I need one. (Much cheaper than daily driving a big truck).

My trailer has surge disc brakes, with brand new calipers, pads, and brake actuator.
http://formulaboatsforum.com/VBFORUM/showthread.php?10763-Summer-Trailer-Fixes

the brake actuator has a 12v lockout, so when the truck is in reverse, it should prevent brake fluid from being able to be pushed to the calipers.

The problem
I'm running into is, my driveway is rather steep, and I have to reverse up it. However the road to my house is also steep and I have to come to a stop downhill, before then immediately reversing into my driveway.

At first I thought it was the rental truck's 7 PIN not correctly energizing Reverse (because I wired the trailer one my self, and know it's 100% correct). However I've not had the time to verify the truck side, since each time I get a different truck, and the goal is to get on the water, not troubleshoot their truck.
They are usually brand new RAM or Fords with < 10,000 miles on them.

So, now I'm thinking that because the road to my house is downhill, and I have to come to a fairly hard stop, the brakes are already being used hard. Even if the Reverse lock out engages, the brakes are now just locked on. I don't think it's a 1 way valve, it's a on/off. So it just locks the brakes ON?!

I've had to use 4-low the last several times to get up the driveway, with the truck pushing 10k + 4 locked wheels (they spin, they just don't like it) (4 low is awesome).

The Plan
Thinking of bridging a wire (plus switch) from the 'lights' power on the trailer, to the reverse lock out.
This, when 'on' would lock out the brakes anytime the trailer lights are ON. (and normal operation when off).
The brakes work well, but fight me hard uphill.

So, I'd head home with the switch off and trailer lights on for safety.
About 1 mile from the house on flat land, I pull over and turn the switch 'on'. and trailer lights ON. This locks out the reverse, after I come to a stop, then bump it forward a few feet, then gently coast to a stop.

So, at this point, I have lights on, trailer brakes locked out. and head to the house with truck only brakes for the 1 mile at 20 MPH. But, then I can 100x more easily backup the driveway...

that or I do nothing and just keep using 4 low and burning up the brakes?

anyone else have this issue? if the road hill was the opposite way, I think the situation wouldn't exist at all. I'd be facing uphill, come to a stop, and the brake actuator would be extended forwards, then locked out when putting truck in R.
And no, I Can't come up the hill, because of other issues.

My previous boat trailer actually had electric brakes, and that was nice... no brakes unless you pushed the brake pedal.


thanks

I considered using the '12v Aux' from the truck, which should be there, but not guaranteed, and by using the lights power, if I turn the lights off, it unlocks the relay. thus giving me control from the vehicle.
 
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Not sure what brand coupler you have but most have a manual pin that can be inserted to prevent the coupler from pushing back on the cylinder when in reverse. I have also used a large C clamp when this pin was not available to keep the coupler from moving. This would be alot simpler than changing wiring and adding switches.
 
On the other side, I also installed a loop of wire to hold the the mechanical lock out in place, which was also easy.
 
Sadly, mine has no mechanical lock out, that I can find, I posted a link to it above. I'll contact the seller and the manufacture and ask why this obvious design oversight? (duh, money)

Thanks for the info, never knew that product existed. I just don't know if any solution is worthwhile, when 4low can overcome the friction of the brakes, just seems like such a poor design. But it is a hassle... ugh.

Ok, I get it, it's a better design than the brake lock out that comes with it.
"The Backflow design allows for changing to reverse while vehicle is stopped in a down hill position. "

Stupid crap companies with stupid crap designs. How this this stuff legal? It should just come with the correct reverse lockout actuator design.

I'll check it out and do some more research on it. Obviously it's more work than the switch idea, but it is a better solution. However I'd have to bleed the brakes, so it would be a lot easier w/the boat off the trailer. Luckily it's spring, so I'd be bringing the trailer home empty, and pushing it, even with brakes applied, is fairly easy.

So, I could do either mod over summer.

Thanks!


This whole reverse lockout is bull$hit. it will never work, if you pulled forward to straiten the trailer, on a hill, the whole thing goes out the window and locks the brakes on!

FWIW I do have a cyber Truck reservation, hopefully it shows up in 2023/4. :)
 
Not real familiar with your model. but look to see if the sliding piece is hollow. If it is, then look to drill a hole (maybe 1/4) thru and use a hardened pin to slide in to keep it from moving
 
That's another option for lock out.

Or, I also keep coming back to, just put it in 4low and push it uphill. It's literally 1x a year in the fall. How much pad wear could occur from pushing it roughly 200' ?

I almost did electric over hydraulic when I did all this work, but at $1k vs. $350... the wallet won out since I only tow it (loaded) 160 miles/year.
 
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