B3 repaint...What to use...?


So I am going to repaint my drives because I do have some corrosion, not a lot but I do have some. I am thinkin about maybe using the POR15 X2 product. Has anyone tried this stuff?
 
I haven't used this specific product but I have used some products from POR15 on a couple automotive projects and really liked them.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have not used this product myself, but know people that have. One person spent almost 1800.00 to have his drives disassembled, cleaned and primed, and coated with this product. The prep work must be completed properly. Drives looked brand new when completed. We are in fresh water on the rivers in Pittsburgh. He pulled his boat after two months the next season to find that the drives looked as bad as they did the year before.
He also has gone through all the corrosion control measures to find that Mercruiser does not install enough sacrificial anodes to overcome voltage difference of the stainless steel props. His readings were very low compared to what the required protection should be. He had his props blasted and powder-coated to see if that would help. The paint just wore off from use, but did help in the beginning.
He ended up adding a magnesium plate to his transom and also hanging one in the water with a welding cable connection to get the readings up to the safe limits, all bonded to the bonding system. This has really helped, but is not the permanent solution.
My corrosion experiences are similar and switched to Volvo Penta on my last boat because they do not have these issues. After 11 years, I never saw any corrosion except for the anodes, which is the sacrificial piece and meant to erode. Current owner confirms that he has no issues.
Best advice would be to ensure your anodes are the correct metal, replaced every year, and have the Mercathode system checked for correct operation. Ensure the bonding system is intact and working.
I purchased a book from Yacht Corrosion Consultants, Inc. https://www.amazon.com/Boat-Yacht-Corrosion-Control-Consultants/dp/B000RAIDRK
There is so much useful information in this binder and highly recommend reading if you are interested in learning about galvanic corrosion.
 
I have not used this product myself, but know people that have. One person spent almost 1800.00 to have his drives disassembled, cleaned and primed, and coated with this product. The prep work must be completed properly. Drives looked brand new when completed. We are in fresh water on the rivers in Pittsburgh. He pulled his boat after two months the next season to find that the drives looked as bad as they did the year before.
He also has gone through all the corrosion control measures to find that Mercruiser does not install enough sacrificial anodes to overcome voltage difference of the stainless steel props. His readings were very low compared to what the required protection should be. He had his props blasted and powder-coated to see if that would help. The paint just wore off from use, but did help in the beginning.
He ended up adding a magnesium plate to his transom and also hanging one in the water with a welding cable connection to get the readings up to the safe limits, all bonded to the bonding system. This has really helped, but is not the permanent solution.
My corrosion experiences are similar and switched to Volvo Penta on my last boat because they do not have these issues. After 11 years, I never saw any corrosion except for the anodes, which is the sacrificial piece and meant to erode. Current owner confirms that he has no issues.
Best advice would be to ensure your anodes are the correct metal, replaced every year, and have the Mercathode system checked for correct operation. Ensure the bonding system is intact and working.
I purchased a book from Yacht Corrosion Consultants, Inc. https://www.amazon.com/Boat-Yacht-Corrosion-Control-Consultants/dp/B000RAIDRK
There is so much useful information in this binder and highly recommend reading if you are interested in learning about galvanic corrosion.
Thanks I am also in fresh water, the great lakes to be exact....
 
Back
Top